An Intrepid journey: December 2012
It was raining lightly as we set off for the Lewis on the 27th of December 2012 for our 5-day adventure. We arrived at the Boyle River crossing northwest of the Engineers camp and after some debate over where to cross we linked up and cruised across the Boyle easily. Up the Doubtful was pleasant easy going until we left the grassy flats and began the bush track. There were felled trees everywhere and negotiating them slowed us considerably. Late lunch at the Doubtless Hut then on up towards the pass.
I couldn't find the track on the true left of the river so we walked up the slippery river finally reaching Phantom Flat late afternoon. A quick rest and we set off up the well-marked Amuri Pass track. The pass itself was boggy and wet and we were forced to bush-bash quite a bit as markers became fewer and harder to locate. The track reappeared and became a wide cart track that meandered around the Waiheke valley reminding us that this used to be a pounamu trail regularly used by Maori and prospectors in the 1800s. After a while the track dropped down steeply which gave my knees a terrible time so at 8pm we set up camp on a wee flattish area, cooked a quick meal and went to bed.
Next morning we packed up after brekkie and continued down the track till we just about fell into the river getting out. More tree-falls to negotiate in the narrow river but after a few hours the valley opened out to grassy flats where we were able to enjoy sunshine and spectacular views of the mountains and valleys. Bronwyn spotted some deer so I sneaked up and filmed them with my little camera. Very cool. A leisurely lunch in the sun at the crusty old Slaty Creek Biv and we set off again enjoying the day and looking for the Tutaekuri river turn-off which eventually appeared just as were all getting tired and hungry. About an hour up the Tutaekuri we camped as rain began to fall steadily. Another long 11 hour day. The birdsong was lovely but the sandflies in the tent were dreadful which made a quiet read after tea impossible. So lights out and heads down for well-earned kip.
A grey foggy dawn greeted us as we ate, swatted sandflies and broke camp. Rain threatened but held off as we headed off up the mist-shrouded Tutaekuri following occasional dozer tracks which was all that was left of farmland (thanks 9 to tenure review). The scenery in this part of the coast is breathtaking. Mist and low clouds were coming and going revealing glimpses of imposing bush-clad mountains and valleys. Late morning the rain came so jackets on. We kept looking for the sharp left turn that would take us back east again towards the Hope. Alas I missed it and 2 hours up the rather beautiful Trent valley while checking my GPS I realised my error and so, after a late lunch we headed back down again repeating a couple of scary river-crossings. If not for Bronwyn’s sharp eyes we might missed the poorly- placed DOC sign telling us the new Tutaekuri hut was 1.5km up the river and off we set in the steady rain, knackered, hungry and wet. What a welcome sight - a shiny new hut with double-glazing, a logburner and comfy bunks. O what bliss! Soon we had a fire going and had hung all the wet stuff out on racks to dry. I was visited by a weka while outside the hut so I videoed him as well. Another big day of 10 hours.
Day Four and the river was roaring after a night of heavy rain. After some lollygagging we agreed to push on as far as we could but would take no risks in the flooded river. Well it was déjà vu: trees, trees and more trees. There were log- jams all over the riverbed. We climbed over, under, through and around them. We bush-bashed and struggled up that valley somehow managing to cross the river when it braided and was shallow, and only when we had no other option. Much discussion of the merits of anti-inflammatories as hips and knees felt the strain! On and on we pushed ‘til a bright red marker showed us we had safely reached the track up the Hope Pass. And it was steep. We were pretty stuffed but it was raining again and we wanted to reach the Top Hope hut before dark so we pushed it. Gradually the track eased off and we began crossing the pass itself. The views were awesome, and we stopped for photos. The sign at the top said 3 hours to the hut. We began to make good time down the well-marked track off the pass. Not for long; suddenly we were back in the river again with markers hard to find and tiredness taking over. A quick stop for some food but only for a few minutes as it was windy, raining and cold. More river crossings. Bronwyn caught her foot in a rocky hole and I had to pull it out for her, worrying she might be injured, but she was OK and battled on. What a trooper! Gradually the track eased out onto grassy river flats and we did the last few kms on automatic pilot. Exhausted, cold and wet we were not impressed to find the fireplace in the Top Hope hut had been closed off. All my clothes were soaking though George and Bron had some dry stuff. A 9-hour day so we slept well.
Day Five. Climbing back into wet gear was just awful. Food and away- thanks, cold hut, for shelter at least. Some welcome sunshine as we headed down the valley into (you guessed it) more river crossings and hard to find markers! It was with real pleasure that we crossed the swing bridge over the Hope knowing we had no more rivers to cross and that we would make it out that day. It took us 8 hours to walk out to the road where a nice fellow tramper gave me a ride back to the start to pick up my vehicle. A difficult but amazing tramp and one of the toughest I've done. Thanks Bronwyn and George; great company, just the best.
Neal
